Straight out of the back of seven weeks continuous building at Erebos Harbor, Leaf and I found ourselves back home at Ash Falls suddenly with hours of free time and feeling a little lost. For all the years I’ve known Leaf I never knew she surfed, it never came up before, until one day in March she turned round to me and declared we’d done enough standing around and that she was taking me surfing. I don’t remember where we ended up that first day; I know we went to North Shore, to Kanaloa, to Bundy and to many other beaches.
From the first moment I experienced it I have loved the thoughts unsaid and the things you speak in those few soulful moments when you get off a wave when you’re out surfing with someone, when you head back towards shore and you’re just watching the water together. One of those things you say between waves that day was ‘we need our own wave run‘.